Michelin Impossible?
Death. Taxes. Awards Season. Three hospitality horsemen that can reliably strike fear into even veteran chefs. Given the terrifying number of restaurants meeting an untimely end (thanks, in large part, to the second of those three horsemen), it seems an odd time for hospitality to put on its glad rags. And yet, here we are.
Considering Labour have shown an unyielding desire to continue the sterling work of their predecessors in decimating the hospitality sector with their April budget, this season might I suggest the addition of a new award for “Restaurant That Still Made Profit”, or “UK’s Best Wage %”? Regrettably, one suspects, there would simply be too few nominations to make for a glitzy event. I digress, chaotically.
We’ve had a lovely few months, as it happens, with the ol’ “national acclaim”. The Albatross-eyed amongst you will have seen a corker of a Grace Dent review that (almost) justified Rach’s breakdown in the interval betwixt her visit and publication. The Wilderness has kicked off the year in great company amongst SquareMeal’s Top 100 Restaurants in the UK. Plus, we’re down in London next week for the Good Food Guide Awards – Albatross is up for Best New Restaurant. We’re excited to unleash Piotr on the capital, and even more excited to clap super loud for the restaurant that inevitably beats us (look, it’s a very strong shortlist).
All of the above is an unexpected and unfaltering pleasure. 2024 was the hardest year I’ve had in the restaurant business – and I’m well aware I say that every year, but no, really. As subjective as awards and accolades are, any opportunity to celebrate personal and collective achievements in this industry is ardently appreciated in this current climate.
It is with a grounded appreciation that I await Michelin’s Scottish Restaurant Rave (edit: I believe they are still referring to it as an Award Ceremony) on February 10th. I’ve written at length about The Wilderness, our complicated relationship with the guide, and making peace with 10 years of not quite being the right fit. Unfortunately, this year, we’ve made a huge mistake. We’ve opened a second restaurant.
So, reader, here’s a blog exclusive for all five of you who read this… As a man who two years ago declared “a waning concern for accolades”, it is regrettable to confess I’m back on the Michelin hype. Those who’ve followed The Wilderness’ journey will know me and Michelin have a long and complex relationship. Obsession, rejection, unrequited love, sleepless nights, writing them letters in my own blood and tears. You know how young love is. As with so many such entanglements, it turns out I’m not quite over it. I’ve got Bibendum back in my line of sight and I’m giving them come-to-bed-eyes.
My zen-like acceptance that the external is not validation, nor purpose, remains. Our reasons for running Albatross will remain unchanged by plaques, or prizes. And yet, there’s some alchemy that has accidentally happened with Albatross. The size (14 seats in this economy?!), the scope (seafood in one of the UK’s most land-locked cities?), the name (need I say more?). Albatross operates outside conventional parameters – the improbability of its success is delicious. There’s chemistry betwixt our small-but-perfectly-formed team and our guests, an alchemy that elevates it beyond expectations. It is a restaurant that exists in defence of the weird, niche, and, well, cult. What a feat if it were to join the most exclusive club in the biz.
I suspect, in all honesty, that we are a year or two off, if that’s our destiny. The modus operandi is a raw and unedited restaurant, but reason tells me we need a little time to continue to progress, evolve, and sculpt. But, fuck me, wouldn’t it be fun if I was wrong?
I’d like to thank the numerous starred chefs, guests, and industry friends who have given a man a potentially false and certainly child-like sense of hope. It’s nice to be dreaming again. This industry can sometimes do much to stoke a healthy cynicism and pessimism. You’ve perked me right up and, whether this year or not, the expectation feels good. Whether we find ourselves improbably in Scotland in a few weeks, or sat here in the JQ sipping an Irn Bru and regretting buying a black tartan kilt, the passion with which you’ve embraced our new project is, frankly, reward enough.
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My Predictions
I think this is a year of growth over new kids on the block, and we’ll see a bumper edition of upgrades to multi-star ratings. A challenging climate is understandably slowing down creative openings, some of the best have fallen in the past year, and it’s the time for stalwarts to double-down and rise. Watch me get ALL of it wrong now. The very best of luck to everyone.
Skof to 1 star at least
(If they let us win the Good Food Guide Award next week)
Joro surely 1 star
Jericho to 1 star – have them on your radar.
Lyla by Stuart Ralston to 1 star
Plates by Kirk Haworth to 1 star
(Kirk and Eddie Shepherd - catch him on GBM now - have done unbelievable things for plant-based cooking)
Grace & Savour to 2 stars
Pine to 2 stars
Claude Bosi at Bibendum to 3 stars
Solstice by Kenny Atkinson to 2 stars
The Frog by Adam Handling to 2 stars
(I don’t know how Adam does so much - maybe he has a clone?)
Osip to 2 stars
Woven by Adam Smith to 2 stars
Endo at The Rotunda to 2 stars
Row on 5 to 2 star
Ynyshir to 3 stars
(The undisputed heavy-weight champion of the industry that was worth 3 years ago)